First, the basics! There are generally two types of pedals that can be found on mountain bikes. The first type is a "cage" type pedal that can be used with toeclips or straps. We like the cage type pedal for general use, but don't recommend the use of straps or toe clips for mountain biking. They can be cumbersome and annoying to use, as well as unsafe in case of a quick dismount (wipeout). The second type of pedal is called "clipless" because you don't use clips or straps. These pedals require some maintenance, and are designed to integrate with your shoe, much like the binding on a ski. Your shoe has an inset piece, the "cleat", located on the bottom that is designed to clip into each pedal. There are advantages and disadvantages of "clipless" pedals. They are popular and allow a more efficient pedal stroke, and are used by serious riders and racers. On the downside, they are more expensive, require maintenance, and can cause a greater injury if you wipeout and can't get out of them fast enough. They also require special shoes which may not be good for walking or hiking in, and you are "stuck" with the same foot position on the pedal. They can also get clogged with debris, and wear with age, as well as get damaged on difficult trail sections where rocks are present. Here's some maintenance tips: For "cage" type pedals, little maintenance is required. Please make sure your cage is metal and not plastic for optimum endurance while mountain biking. Plastic pedals will not last long under normal riding conditions. If you have plastic pedals, replace them. There are lots of pedals to chose from with different shapes and sizes to suit your needs that are not plastic. Make sure that the pedal is tightened adequately on the crank arm, and that the cage bolts or screws are tight to hold the cage on the frame of the pedal properly. These can get loose and cause a problem on the trail, so be sure to check them for tightness. There are usually four of these on each pedal cage, and they may have a hex or Phillips head. They may be rivets, however, and these cannot be tightened. Once they break, the pedal must be replaced. When buying a new pedal, try not to get the rivet design and make sure you get a durable cage that will resist bending. Most "cage" type pedals can be disassembled and repaired, but if they are broken just replace them! To remove the pedals you need either a 15mm pedal wrench, or a 6 mm Allen wrench. The pedal wrench is pictured on this page. The right side pedal unscrews COUNTERCLOCKWISE when viewed from that side. The left side pedal is reverse threaded, however, and is unscrewed in a CLOCKWISE direction when viewed from that side. Please remember this!! This seems to go against the laws of physics. Once loosened, each pedal can be unscrewed quickly by turning the crank with the wrench engaged on the pedal spindle. To install the pedals, make sure the pedal axle is clean and the threads on the crank arm are clean (use a rag if needed here). Put some grease on the pedal threads. Start screwing the pedal onto the crank arm by hand. The right pedal you turn CLOCKWISE and the left pedal you turn COUNTERCLOCKWISE to tighten. The pedals should be labeled R and L. Make sure you know which is which before starting. Be careful to get them off to a good start, and don't strip the crank arm. Use the pedal wrench to tighten the pedals, but don't make them overtight or they might be too hard to take off again. "Clipless" pedals can be set up at the bike store where you purchased them, and they will usually be happy to install the cleats into your shoes as well. The cleats must be installed so that the ball of your foot is directly over the pedal spindle. This is the fore-aft adjustment. The cleats also need to be in proper position laterally so that your feet don't rub against the cranks while pedaling. This is also adjustable. You may also be able to set the rotational position of the cleat so that it feels comfortable while pedaling and you don't have undue pressure on either side of the heel from the shoe. Obviously, the shoes must fit and be the proper size for your feet as well. The release tension can be adjusted on the "SPD" compatible pedals as well. The Time and Speedplay pedals are an exception. These allow a degree of float. For "SPD" compatibles, the adjusting screws are located at the front and rear of the pedal. You can use an Allen wrench, usually 3 mm. To loosen the tension adjustment, turn the screw counterclockwise. This will allow for easier escape from the pedal. To tighten the pedal for your cleats, turn the screw clockwise. Onza pedals use different elastomers to adjust the release, and you adjust these by changing the elastomers. Time pedals are not adjustable, and Speedplay pedals are adjusted by rotating the cleat on the sole of the shoe to reduce the release angle. Pedal release mechanisms require maintenance and need to be cleaned periodically and lubricated. The cleats also need to be cleaned and lubricated on a regular basis. Check the cleats to make sure the screws are tightened to the sole, and that no mud or dirt is stuck inside. You can lubricate the pedal spring contacts with a dry chain lube, and also use this on the contact end of the cleats. If you require more details about your pedals than listed here, please give us a call! |
