Hi, I've recently bought a used Kona Koa, it has rigid forks and I want to change to suspension forks. I tried to put an old set of suspension forks on my Kona but the steerer was too short (140mm). The length of the static steerer tube is 165mm, does this mean I have to get forks with 165mm steerer in future or could I buy ones with say a 200mm steerer? What would happen if I did get 200mm steerer forks? Please help, I'm confused! Cheers Dale Hi Dale & thanks for visiting Web Mtn. Bike. I have checked My references and it seems as though all threadless forks are about 260 mm in length. If You are installing a threaded fork The steerer tube length becomes more critical. If You are using the same headset as the original fork then Just measure Your existing rigid forks steerer tube and purchase a suspension fork that is slightly longer but never shorter. There is also an issue if You are purchasing a new head set. If Using the exact replacement should be no problem. If You change brands make sure it has the same stack height. This is the measurement of the headset cups (part sticking out of frame) the spacers & the top thread on cup & the top lock nut. Does this seem complicated it is, that's why a threadless system is better. Your Mechanic, Mike I have an old Balance mtn bike with a threadless headset. I recently got some dirt in the headset bearings (grinding noise). I've removed the top screw, cap, and stem screws but cannot get the stem to move. Could it be frozen? If so, is there a way to free it up so I can get to the bearings to clean/repack them? Thanks. Hi Jim, Thanks for stopping by WMB. I would say that if the stem is not fastened to the steerer with it's fixing bolts than it must be "frozen" or stuck. If it is a pinch bolt style try to spread it apart. If it is a wedge bolt type put the bolt back into it and lightly tap the bolt to free up the wedge. Usually the wedge bolt style has the bolt securing the stem to the fork in front of the steerer tube. The pinch bolt just squeezes the stem and secures it by clamping down on it. Try some heat from a propane torch. And use a penetrating spray. This should free it up. Be care full ! Your Friends at WMB Thanks! If I can follow up I won't take too much of your time (hopefully!). I'm not sure of the difference between pinch bolt and wedge bolt. Are you referring to the star nut? Hi, Most aheadset style stems attach solidly onto the steerer tube (fork)in one of two ways. We have the "pinch bolt style" stem designed so that there is two bolts which thread into the stem and as You tighten them they clamp the body of the stem firmly by "pinching" the stem together onto the fork steerer tube. There is another type of fastening system also used, its hard to explain but we can call it the wedge bolt type, whereas a single bolt runs thru the stem just ahead of where the fork goes thru. It has a set of locking wedge jaws that are drawn together by this single bolt as it passes thru the inside of the stem (not the fork) attaching it firmly to the steerer tube. I hope this helps, remember a penetrating spray, a small amount of heat (propane torch) be careful! and trying to pry open the "pinch bolt style" or tapping the bolt on the "wedge bolt" style. Good Luck ! Regards , WMB tech Mike M. I hear a funny noise that seems to be coming from the headset.... how can I tell if that is a problem, ot if it loose??? Try this, hold your front brake lever tight, to lock up the front brake, put your weight on the seat to hold it down, and push the bike forward with the brake on, it won't move forward very easy but you might here the sound that you here while riding. Try to isolate where the sound is coming from. I would bet that it is emitting from the headset and or the headset bearings not seating properly in the frame. Good luck and let us know how it works out. i recently started building a mountain bike and i have ran inot some questions. i recently bought non threaded suspension forks and a threadless headset and after started assembly i have found that i only have about an inch left of fork to add a stem. after searching for stems i have found that they are to long to add to fork. id it possible to add a quill stem to a threadless fork? Sorry to hear about your steering tube not being long enough. I am not aware of any system that would allow for adjusting the headset if you had a quill type stem. The top cap of a threadless headset is the device that performs the tightening and adjusting of the threadless style headset. You cannot install a quill type stem with the top cap and star nut in place. I am not saying that it can't be done, if you were clever and had a machine shop you could probably figure out some type of fix. I don't know of anyone who has tried to come up with a solution. How about trying to find a headset with less stack height. Good Luck, Mike Manimal, Hope you can be more helpful than the LBS on this one. I recently got some dirt in my headset and had to take it apart, clean and repack the bearings. I used regular automotive bearing grease to repack the bearings. Since I got it back together a creak has developed in the headset. It does it only on rough terrain, but it’s very annoying. As far as I can tell I have the headset adjusted properly. Is there something I could be missing? Am I doing damage to my bike by riding it like this? I appreciate any advice you can give. Keith Hey Keith , are you sure of where the creak is coming from ? Squeeze the front brake lever then rock the bike back and forth, try to isolate where the noise is coming from .There is a good possibility that it may be coming from the fork itself. In the past I have seen many forks crowns come loose from the steerer tube. What type of fork do you own ? Are the stancion tubes pressed in to the crown or bolted ? Is the crown bolted or press fit into the steerer tube. Also check to make sure that the creaking is not coming from the frame/headset cup interface. Please also check to see that the bolts holding the handlebars to the stem are tight... ride on Mike Dear Myke the Mechanic, I have bought a new Specialized Enduro Expert and love riding it over here in the UK. I am heading up to Ben Nevis (highest mountain in UK) next week and want to be safe but my headset is loose. There is a bolt at the top of the stem which I think I have to loosen, then what do I do? ( I have no headset tool either ) Yours Tooless Lorne Hi Lorne, I hope your summer provided you with lots of good riding opportunities. As far as the headset adjustment is concerned ,there should be some type of clamping mechanism either pinch type ( usually 2 bolts that pinch the steerer tube)or wedge bolt type(usually 1 bolt that has internal wedges that grab the steerer tube) whichever style that you have first loosen these (5MM hex) then make the adjustment w/ a 5 mm hex wrench inserted into the top cap pre-load adjustmant bolt. Tighten this slowly while holding the front brake and rocking the bike when the "play" is gone your adjustment is made. Re-tighten the stem securing bolt or bolts. Hello, I recently bought a second hand mountain bike with a Tioga Alchemy headset on it. I want to tighten it up, but I must confess that I have no idea how it works. I have tried tightening and losening the top bolt but I can't seem to get my bars tight. Can you offer some help? Thank you Andy,thanks for checking out the site.What is up with your bike,man ? So,you have tried with no success to tighten up that loose headset by using the preload screw located in the top of your stem.Try this out, step 1) hold your front brake on and rock the bike forward and backward put your fingers on the headset cup and the top of the fork right near the cup, rock it and feel for play.2)try this down by your fork seals to make sure the play is'nt in your fork.3) if the looseness is indeed in your headset adjustment,loosen up your stem securing bolts 4)loosen and remove the top cap screw and cap,make sure the stem is 3-4 mm. higher than the forks steerer tube.5)make sure the threaded insert in the steerer tube is secure 6)if all is good here,put the screw and cap back on 7)tighten the preload/adjustment screw this should do the job,remember this is an adjustment, tighten it enough to take out the play, too tight is'nt good either. Good luck and keep the wheels turning.MM I recently got a bike with an aheadset type headset (ie threadless). Would you mind going over how to adjust these, and how to repack the bearings. I am having problems with it being to loose with too much play. Thanks John John, Please let us know what kind of bike you have, and if it is new or used, and we will send you the info you need about your headset. You may need to add some spacers if it is loose... I assume you want to take it apart and rebuild it, or do you just want to adjust it? Thanx, ~~MaNiMaL~~ Thanks for the reply, but I figured out the solution to my problem. As with most problems, the answer was obvious and right in front of my face. I couldn't get the headset tight enough (it's a threadless 1 1/8 Ritchy Logic HS). I kept tightening the top bolt with the stem loose and there continued to be play. Then I looke at the thing and realized that the edges of the steertube were even with the edges of the stem. Obviously it would not tighten because the stem could not be pushed down anymore, the steertube was too long. Solution cut the steertube or place a spacer under the stem. I did the latter. Thanks John |
