I have a Giant bike with front shocks. When I turned it upside-down a lot of oily water came out of one of the shock absorbers. Shoudl I worry, get it replaced? Rich, Hello... thanx for your inquiry.. it sounds like you have a bad seal and the hydraulic fluid leaked out of one of your fork tubes... some bikes do not do well when you turn them upside down in this regard. The fluid should be replaced - you can try to do it yourself by getting instructions from the shock manufacturer or take it to the shop and have them check it out and add the correct volume and type of oil... good luck thanx stan On a Fox Float RP3 shock,what is the max air pressure? Also on the three position selector switch,which position is which? In other words if the selector is on the + sign ,what is that supposed to do? Same with the - sign, and the middle position? Thanks Dan. Hello Dan... thanx for your inquiry... the max air pressure on any FOX shock is 300 psi. The FOX HP pump is designed to be able to reach this pressure, and is made for the FOX shocks. The rider weight limit is approx. 250 -270 lbs for any of the FOX air shocks (so if you weigh more than this think of a coil over design shock non- SID like the FOX Vanilla). You should not need to go to the 300 psi unless you are over 270 lbs - and at this weight FOX only recommends 200 psi. For a 200 lb. rider FOX recommends 115 psi. The 3 position switch sets the amount of pro-pedal damping - with the "+" setting the most damping to most reduce suspension bob (going uphill), and the "-" setting the least damping (for the most active suspension and plush ride), and the middle setting is intermediate damping. You can also set the number of clicks on the re-bound adjuster knob as well - this controls the rate at which the shock returns after it has compressed - and is also based on weight and air pressure. Also, some Brain-equipped shocks have a bump threshold adjustment with a blue lever to adjust sensitivity. Some FOX Float shocks come with AVA or air volume adjuster & this feature allows you to alter the shape of the spring curve, but it must be adjusted with the shock almost deflated fully, and then set before re-inflating so it is done pre-tuning and not on-the-fly.....check out foxracingshox.com for more info... ride on stan Dear Sir I have just purchased a Specialized FSR 04 with a Foxfloat R Propedal Rear Shock, and the reason im writing is to ask about the right PSI for my weight. I am 11 stone and have no idea what it is and just asking for information about this. I would be greatful if you could e-mail me back to this address with the right information. Trevor... hello! Here is a quick rule of thumb to get the proper psi for your FOX Float shock. The actual pressure may vary depending upon your own riding style and technique, and you should also adjust the sag on your shock to verify the proper air pressure. EZ to remember the PSI - the PSI = Rider Weight. IF you weigh 100 lbs. place about 100 psi in the shock.. if you weigh 190 lbs. place 190 psi, etc.... YOUR WEIGHT = PSI. Hope this helps.. ride on stan Hey guys. I have a 2000 Jamis Dakar and I am getting some side to side movement on the rear, when trying to push the tire from left to right. I have checked all pivot points, all are tight, it seems to be a nuisance only. Is there an underlying factor I should be concerned with? Is there a problem with this frame that you know of? I don't notice any big problems on the trail. Just wondering if this could turn into something that may be a safety concern at some point in the future. Also, I let my Jamis dealer look at it, he said there was no problem, then my LBS looked at it also, they told me the bushings were worn. I have since replaced them, to no avail though. Thanks, Shawn Hey Shawn, hope we can help. First, try to isolate where the unwanted movement is originating from. When you grab the rear drop-outs w/-out the wheel in the frame, do you still notice any play. If you determine that the play is in the wheel, check the hub for loose bearings or check for loose spokes. If the play/ lateral movement is in the frame/swingarm interface determine which pivot is allowing the unwanted movement and why. Inspect the moving parts and examine them for wear. You may have parts that are worn other than the bushings. Good Luck, Mike Help ! I am about to fit some Judy tt shocks to me mtb, i have purchased a FSA orbit UF headset and a titec threadless stem the only thing iam confused about is how long i have to cut the steerer tube. Is there a formula or calculation for this and how do i no if i need spacers or not, Would be very gratefull for your reply answer Regards Lee Ralph If you were happy with your previous stem height either guess or try to measure the original height.Then figure how many spacers it will take to get your new stem and handlebar up to the original position.Now to get the right steerer tube length.1) properly install the headset.2) install the fork and bearings.3)install the headset top bearing cover.4)install the spacers.5)install the stem 6)draw/scribe a line at the top of the stem onto the steerer tube.7) remove the fork measure about 4 - 5 mm. down from your mark and cut it there.Thanks MM i recently bought some stratos M-X6 forks and when i fitted them they rock forward and back but everything appears to be tightened!please help me , as soon as you can! Chris also how do you fit a new FSA orbit headset?? Thanks Chris, I do not have any experience with this fork but, I will assume it has a threadless headset. First what is the condition of the headset new,used,thrashed,dirty.If it looks good,clean,not overly worn leave it in. If not, have a shop install one, as the tools (expensive to buy & hard to make) & you have to a fairly high skill level to do it right.Here are some other things to check out #1)pull off the top cap & check that the steerer tube is the right length, if it appears to be level with the top of your stem the preload/ adj. allen screw on top will not be able to take up the slack.You can also loosen the stem securing bolts if the stem moves up down between the top cap & spacers you will need to cut the steerer tube or add more spacers.#2)make sure the fork crown race is the correct size & that it is properly installed.#3)play is not in the fork legs . Thanks hope this helps you out . Hello, I have fairly recently purchased a KHS Alite 1000. I have a question for you about replacing the front fork. I am trying to remove the fork, and cannot get it off. I have removed the brakes, and the handle bars, and have removed the bolt at the top of the headset, but the fork will still not come out. Is there something I am doing wrong? Can you please tell me what else I must do to get the fork off? Thank you very much for your time. Dave S. David, thanks for checking out webmountain bike . If you have a threadless fork remove brake caliper L&R sides , remove the allen bolt from the top cap, loosen the stem clamping bolts, the stem should slide off easily.Now , the fork should drop out from the frame , if it is stubborn you may have to tap on the top of the steerer tube w/ a plastic mallet , block of wood , or something that won' t damage the steerer tube.There is a conical wedge lock within most threadless headsets once you remove the stem & any spacers the wedge lives under these components. Make sure there is not any corrosion in this area it could hamper removal, be careful if you have a non cartidge bearing type headset,the bearings may fall out. Make sure to check the condition of all components for wear ,clean , lube, & re-install parts. Hey, your site is great and helps me alot, especially with the tune up part. Most of the rear shock section is clear to me except for the total travel of the shock. Is the total travel length the same as the length of the spring or is it the space between the parts inside the spring? The travel of the shox is determined by the stroke, with a coil spring unit it is best to measure without the spring . With the shox at full extension measure from eye to eye and then compress it all the way and measure, that is the shox travel. The travel of the bicycle is determined by leverage ratios, it is not uncommon for a shox with two and half inches of travel to produce more than five inches of rear wheel travel. Good Day, Fabulous site. I'll shop your shop. In the interim, I have a ca. 1986 Fisher H-K-E-K, which I have gotten back into riding recently. I used to ride lots, and am remembering how much fun it is as I have been crosstraining on my training taper in advance of an ultra. Anyway, I want to change the whole bike before too long, but wonder if, in the interim, changing out the fork to a shock is feasible while retaining existing deore XT components (remember, ca. 1986 components). I've read about this new non-threaded thing, which is new to me, and so I do not know if a new fork can get onto my existing headset. I used to be able to strip out the bike entirely, so I know how the 'old' forks go on my headset. Yes, no, thoughts? Thanks, Neil Stan, I'd like to thank you for taking the time to call me yesterday about my question. It was very, very nice of you, and completely unexpected. I wrote down all of the details you provided. In reality, the best option for me is to get a new machine, keep my present one (re-outfitted with slicks), and have a road machine and trail machine. The geometry of my present bike is not the greatest for climbing and descending. Of course I said that about the Univega Alpina Uno I had long, long, long ago too. Anyway, I do appreciate the call and info. I'll keep an eye on your site for those GT's Idrives and try one when I get the chance. When the time comes to purchase, well...maybe I can get it thru you if that's the bike for me. OK. Thanks, and happy riding and skiing and whatever else. Neil *How do I tune my full suspension bike, and make any adjustments to the shocks? Check out our full suspension tune up before you ride! |
