I have a better description for you seeing as I sent that email without properly investigating lol. The bike is clicking no matter what now uphill, downhill and on flat roads. I don't have a clue what's wrong but a friend told me it's something to do with the bearings inside the crank so I'll try and describe to you best I can. Recently I put my bike upside down and turned the pedals with my hands to be sure that it isn't the weight that the bike can't handle, and it still clicked I noticed that straight after it clicked if I held it in that spot the pedals were moved about and shook easily, then if I turned the pedal to a different place it was very tight and impossible to move, the weird thing is that it's not always in the same place. If you could reply to this email to it would be greatly appreciated as I am having to walk everywhere just to be on the safe side lol. Thanks Adam. Hi Adam, Try that with the chain off of the front chainrings. If You stiil feel the same thing and the cranks are wiggling side to side in some positions and tight in others the bottom bracket is worn out. Good Luck, Mike Dear Myke. my marin bike is fitted with a cartridge type bottom bracket, which feels gritty. I have the necessary tools to remove cranks and the splined tool to engage the female splines in the BB. Question on the chain side there is an external boss or coller is this left or right hand? Using the splined tool clockwise or anticlock does not move it. Same question applies to the none chain side? I have been in engineering over 50 years and feel well able to service this unit if I can remove it. PLEASE HELP. Regards Andrew. Hi Andrew and Thank You for visiting Web Mtn. Bike. To answer Your question about the removal of the cartridge style bottom bracket. On the drive side (chainwheel side) Your would turn the Splined Cup clockwise. On the opposite (L Crank) side it's again clockwise. I Use a fifteen inch adjustable wrench when the parts are stubborn to remove! As far as servicing the cartridge style bb. If it is a Shimano unit I would recommend replacing the unit as they are not that expensive. I don't believe that they are repairable. Good Luck, Mike Myke, thanks for all your eforts, and time making "cranking our way through life", a better experience. Bottom Brackets are probably the scariest thing for a newbee to take on, at least mentally, but we all have to get inside one sooner or later and this is my first one.I read your great reply, on B.B. R&R , and found it very usefull, and easy to follow. My question is: How do I, determine the size and type of B.B. needed by my frame? I purchased a new Schwinn Sierra MTB 17" frame only, (nos?). The frame is, judging by Schwinn's paint schemes, no more than 3 to 4 years old, but is a brand new unbuilt frame. I have no clue as to what B.B. to install. I believe that Shimano is the common brand used on this frame, but there doesn't seem to be a site, to give specs. on the bike build, that i.d.'s the original, or useable brackets for the frame. Can the serial # be helpfull in gathering info?Any sizeing/typeing/online links, info. would be greatly apreciated. Thanks again,for a great source of bicycle maintainence help! John Hi John, and thanks for visiting the site. First off determine the width of the bottom bracket shell. This is the part of the frame in which you will install the BB. Use a tape measure that is metric standard. It should be approx. 73 mm wide, it may be 68 mm. This is known as the BB shell width. Most BB are 73 or 68 mm. Now you will need to decide on what type and brand of cranks that you plan to install. I suggest using Shimano cranks, but whatever Crankset you choose it is best to use that manufactures BB as well, they will know which BB spindle works best with which Crank. Most of the higher line, Deore and up in Shimano's line-up are available with splined BB spindles instead of the older square taper spindles. They are much less prone to breakage or coming loose. If you choose an XT crank than get an XT BB. The shop or website should know which BB works with which Crank, you supply the BB shell width info. That should do it, good luck. Mike the Bike When changing the BB do you need to use grease on it or for that matter anywhere on the bike??? I am redoing my entire bike. I am pretty good with tools, but I just don’t know what I should grease, should I put grease on the cassette before I put it on??? Thanks for visiting the site . As for greasing parts before installing them. There are several reasons for lubing items on your bike . I like to use Boeshield lube/protectant for things like the inside of steel frames or steerer tubes . It also works well as a prep for any item that is prone to rust or needs a slight film type lube . Grease works well on things like bottom bracket or steerer tube threads it will prevent corrosion or use anti seize if you want to get technical . There is some products available from Boat U.S. I think there is a product like anti-sieze called tech gel that is better than anything for protecting any metal threads including titanium . Lubing you freehub body before installing your cassette is a good idea mainly to prevent corrosion . Thanks Mike Hello guys. Thanks for such an informative and user friendly site! I have a question regarding my bike's BB. I was in a race Sunday (my first, but not my last!) and it had 2 river crossings about 2.5 feet deep. I have a sealed BB. Is it necessary for me to do some kind of cleaning or PM to this? Is there a chance water got in there? How do I get it out? And finally... Can you give me instructions on how to replace the BB, for if and when I do need to R&R it? I was an auto mechanic a few years ago, so I am mechanically inclined, I just would like to know what I am getting into before I tear it down... Thanks again! -Shawn Hey Shawn nice to here from you ! We hope you had fun at your race and generally had a good time there . Racing mountain bikes just has so many aspects to it , you have to be a great bike handler , aerobically fit , mentally tough , and a good mechanic too ! Now on to the bottom bracket questions . First the tools you will need to have are 1) a 14 mm socket or an 8 mm hex ( allen ) socket to remove the bolts that hold the crank arms onto BB spindle. note some modern cranks have splined bottom bracket interfaces ( where the crank arm connects to the BB spindle ) and a fitting built into the crank arm that when loosened will automatically remove the arm . Basically a built in crank extracter , this is known as a " one key release ". If your crank has this feature you can remove the cranks easily . Make sure you hold the cranks and wrenchs to allow for the best leverage . 2) Some cranks are splined but don't have the one key release , you will then need the Park tool model ccp-4c, most splined cranks have the one key release . 3) Older and less expensive bikes have the more commonly used square tapered Bottom Bracket spindle, very few of these have the built in extracters . You will need Park tool model ccp-2 to remove the crank arms of this type . Use either 8mm hex socket or 14 mm socket to remove the bolts that hold the arm on . Insert the cccp-2 tool onto the arm (make sure that you thread it all the way into the arm itself before you start to turn the handle that removes the arm) they can strip out the arm if not threaded into the arm completely . Use the position that provides the best leverage , they can be tough to get off . Can water get into the Bottom Bracket ? Can water leak out of a water pump of a car engine ? It all depends on the seal . Have I seen many that failed do to running through water ? Not really . But , It is not a bad idea to check it ( remember that race thing, it includes maintaining the machine) Once you have the arms off spin the spindle and see how it feels smooth or notchy , silky or gritty . Is it covered with mud or is it clean? To remove the bottom bracket you will need Park tool bbt-2 this fits all Shimano and most ISIS (a new standard used by some other crank manufacturers) bottom brackets. Whew ! thats the most that I have typed in a while ! The drive side (chain side) has a reversed thread , but first take out the non drive side "cup" using the bbt-2 tool Now go to the drive side and remove the bottom bracket from the frame. Once you get it out clean and lube the Bottom Bracket "shell" housing in the frame . If it feels good reinstall it and the arms, make it tight but don't beak it . Good luck and let us know how your racing works out. Mike the bike |
