THE BASICS OF MOUNTAINBIKING This section was developed to review some of the basic tips for mountainbikers who are new to the sport, or are just beginning to ride. *Riding position uphill: keep your weight forward, keep your chin low over the bars, and try to keep your head forward. The nose of your seat should be poking you in the butt as you are in the "crouch" position!! Use bar extenders or "cowhorns" to make climbing easier, as these will enable better weight distribution for the steeps and help you to move forward on the bike. If the rear wheel loses traction, you may be too far forward. You may want to raise your seat up on long uphills for a better pedaling stroke. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Riding position downhill: you want to keep your weight back, and your seat lower than normal. I ride with my butt behind my seat on the real steeps, with my weight over the rear wheel. If you go too far back, however, you will lose traction with your front wheel and have a hard time steering your bike. Keep your wrists low on the bars, and ride on your pedals with them even to the ground. This lowers your center of gravity. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Shifting: The left shifter controls the front derailleur which moves your chain on the three sprockets near your pedal. You basically have three gears here. The small ring ( #1 position ) is for low gear to go slow and climb. The middle gear ( #2 ) position is for medium speed and slightly harder to pedal. This can be used for level ground. The larger gear ( #3 ) is for high speed cruising or going downhill. It is the hardest to pedal. The right shifter controls the gears on the back wheel, and you have 7,8,or 9 sprockets. Use these to fine tune whatever front gear you are in. The lower numbers are easier to pedal, then gradually shift up as your speed increase to the higher numbers. As you speed up and go to the highest on the right, you can then go to the next largest gear using the left shifter and then go back down to the lower numbers on the right. Select the proper gear in advance in changing terrain, and if a climb is coming up, then get in your lower gears well in advance. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Braking: Know which brake controls the front wheel. Usually it is the left on U.S. bikes. The rear brake should be used mostly when going downhill, and the front brake gently (or else you may go over the bars and do an endo). When your brakes are wet, they will not stop as good unless you have disc brakes. Don't brake before going over obstacles, SPEED UP. If the section is too steep WALK. Check your brake pads for wear and position, and keep your rims clean. Adjust braking lever action at the handlebar cable tensioner, and check before riding. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Your line: Look ahead and pick out your line where you will ride. Plan ahead and look for roots, stumps, logs, streams, holes, water bars, loose gravel, etc... Pick a good line and use momentum in your favor. Watch out for branches, changing terrain, and other riders. Stay in total control. If unsure about a creek crossing or log pile, dismount and check it out beofre riding it. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Standing: Sometimes it is good to pedal while standing up on the bike, although requires more effort. Grip the bar end extenders to keep proper weight distribution. When you stand, you lower your center of gravity and the bike handles differently. Most downhills require standing on the pedals equally but keeping your weight back and arms extended. Standing can also stretch out your back, and give you a change of pace and feel when riding. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Bunny hop: This technique allows you to completely unweight the bike and get both wheels off the ground. Can be done with and without "clipless" pedals. Basically, you compress your bike and push your weight down, and then spring up. Both wheels should come off of the ground for a time. You can use this to go over logs, obstacles, or to unweight the bike. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Gear: Carry liquids and food when you ride, unless you go for a real short ride. Put about 40 lbs. air pressure in your tires. Lube your chain. Wear hand protection (gloves) and eye protection (glasses) if needed. Use common sense, if a section looks tough WALK IT first. Wear comfortable clothes and make sure your shoelaces do not dangle and get caught in the gears. Test your bike before you ride. Don't let your "expert" friends force you to do stuff over your head. Think smart and follow your own instincts. Ride the best gear you can afford, and maintain your bike. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Attitude: Have a positive attitude and good mental outlook. Push yourself within your limits but avoid risk taking. Know when to stop riding and take a break. Look ahead and always anticipate the next section. Visualize what you ride. Keep focused, feel your balance points, and have fun! Read books or watch videos to learn new techniques. Ride with your friends who are in your own league. Then, ride with someone better and push yourself a little. Practice courteous trail etiquette and don't forget to look around and smell the roses. Check out the wildlife... Look at the views... Enjoy being a kid again... |
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